Graceland

Some time back I started taking a train ride at new waterlines in my life. Job change, retirement etc so Bernie's passing on the 12th was the the motivation for this trip. Usually I would do it alone and sort out all that was in my head but Jimmy Quinlevan asked to come along. Now I'm home and sorting out the trip in my head.

City of New Orleans at Chicago's Union Station.

We had a few nice stops on the 3 hour layover after the Hiawatha ride from Milwaukee. The Lodge on Division and its great jukebox. The bar at the Drake Hotel too. Jimmy even was in the middle of a bar fight that the bartender put out in seconds. Woman. Large frame but not fat. Coming over the bar to straighten things out. I was in the bathroom. Wish I would have seen it. So we really didn't need to hit the Lounge Car when we boarded.Yep, little airline bottles although I guess we can't call them airline bottles anymore.

Lounge Car

It was an overnight train just like in "Some Like It Hot" although my roomie was Jimmy. Upper bunk for me. If it looks like I'm in a coffin, it is.Those are my feet under the covers. A handy mesh thing to throw gear in and a strap to keep me from flying by Jimmy below.

Upper Berth

The highlight of our 6:30 AM arrival in Memphis was Ross the cab driver. I didn't understand a word he said, other than, "If you have too much fun the judge here will give you a 60-90 day vacation." I think he lived in his cab. Empty bottle of vodka on the back seat floor. Old newspapers everywhere.

Ross

Grabbed breakfast at The Peabody and then our rental car and off to Graceland. Elvis bought it in 1958 when he as 22 years old. It was out in the country then I'm sure but now its in the hood. In fact the whole city is a hood but that's for a different blog. Here we are with our neat headphones and I-pads with narration by John Stamos. Wonder who he pissed off.

Graceland Mansion

The inside is what you would expect from Elvis in the 70's... or my parents. I could live there. Picture is the only portrait Elvis ever commissioned. From his time in Las Vegas. That's a Vegas Elvis by the way. Being a fan I know there are Early Elvi, Army Elvi, Movie Elvi, Hawaii Elvi Black Leather Jacket Comeback Concert Elvi, (my personal favorite) and Vegas Elvi.

Vegas Elvis

He's buried there with his parents and some other dead people. Also his stillborn twin brother. Only children rock.

Grave

For $5 more you can see his airplane. This is $45 event so somebody is making money off the poor guy. Never been in a party plane but it was cool. His bed even had a seat belt. FAA regulation.

Boeing 707

Last stop is the stone wall in front of Graceland on Elvis Presley Boulevard. That's all I've ever visited before on many trips to Memphis over the years. This time I remembered the Sharpie to sign my name.  I don't know how this got started but its 200 yards of well wishers or whatever. A few phone numbers.

The Wall

Next off to Sun Studio. Famous again due to the play Million Dollar Quartet. Elvis, Johnny Cash, Jerry Lee Lewis and Carl Perkins recorded here in the day. I'm actually a bigger Johnny Cash fan than Elvis so this was cool.

Sun Studio

Time to dump the rental car and kill time downtown before the return train. Did I mention this was a no hotel trip? First stop was to catch The Peabody Ducks. Those are whole ducks. Just like the feature at River Lane Inn. Its a classic historic hotel. I could live there too.

Peabody Ducks

Then on to Beale Street which you could skip during a weekday. I'm sure it hops at night past my bedtime. BB King has a place for years and other music joints and bars. Lots of bums too. In fact there were bums everywhere. The town is a dump.

Beale Street

One stroke of luck was the "go to" BBQ place down the alley from the Peabody was closed on Mondays so a bartender on Beale suggested The Bar-B-Q Shop. It was great. Has replaced the go to.

The Bar-B-Q Shop

Getting a little out of order but back on Beale we spend most of the time on Beale in Schwabs. They have a bar. Old time general store with everything from soup to nuts. Even a Voodoo department for those crazy people down there. Jimmy asked the bartender Elliot how long hes' worked there. "50 years." Elliot is the great great grandson of the founder. Jewish immigrant from France in the mid 1800s. He gave us the lowdown on everything. I think Ross was trying to also but as I said we couldn't understand him.

Elliot Schwab

The voodoo thing I've seen before but nice to show a new guy. Potions, hexes and the like. These hex candles seem to have a theme more often than not of romance. If only Bill Cosby would have stopped at these.

Hex Candles

Had to swing by St Jude's Children Hospital. This is the towns only redeeming quality. Danny Thomas was some guy. Could use more like him. (Did I forget to mention that due to this trip I missed The Grammy's...again?) Laura's Tri Delta sorority at DU raised money for this place and she even visited as their representative one year when in school. My frat sold pizza's on Monday nights for, well, I never asked why come to think of it. The place is massive but this is her group's nice contribution.

 

So ends my first attempt at a travel blog. I really don't care if anyone reads this other than it will get Laura to sing at funerals. Frankly I think too many people write about crap and think its important and I've probably just entered that crowd. Sorry. Next trip is Michigan UP for Pine Mountain Ski Jumping. (Watching, not doing)

"Thank you, thank you very much"